Volume and Connection Questions

[nreel]

Try opening the Audio Controls and check the slider on the WAVE/Mp3.

Make sure the WAVE slider is above 50%...set it at 100% if you like.

No, the Power supply in a computer doesn't have anything to do with the amount of Power out of the Sound Card.

Usually, Powered Mixers do not have XLR LINE Inputs.

It appears that your Powered Mixer "Yamaha EM88s 250-400" is rated at 250Watts Stereo (250W per Channel) and 400Watts Mono. For Yamaha, this, usually, means at 8-Ohms.

Your Yamaha Series s115 club series speakers, if they are actually CLUBIV or CLUBV speakers, are rated at 500Watts Program and 1000Watts Maximum at 8-Ohms. In stereo mode (250W per Channel) you would be grossly under powering these Speakers. Even with your MASTER Volume at MAX, you would need to have the Volume, on the LINE IN Channel, up 100%, if you had any crowd at all. If you had 100 people or more, you would never be able to get over the loudness of the crowd!

I know what you were thinking when you put this system together...that, no way will I be able to Blow these speakers, but the opposite is the case. With your AMP at MAX...all the time...you are more prone to clipping (bad frequencies going to the Speakers) and, therefore, a higher probability of blowing the Speakers. Not to mention the fact that your AMP has NO HEAD ROOM and, if run continuously like this, will fail.

You should look into running your AMP in MONO. This way you get 400Watts, which is closer to the Program Rating of your Speakers and give you more HEAD ROOM on your AMP.

Or, buy two more CLUBV (CLUB IVs are obsolete) and Parallel them. The resistance is halved in Parallel. 2 8-Ohm Speakers, in Parallel, become effectively 4-Ohm Speakers. Therefore, 4 8-Ohm Speakers hooked in Stereo, should give you the 400Watts per Channel and more HEAD ROOM on your AMP.

As far as HUM goes, you can by a HUM eliminator, as GDUNS suggested, or lift the Ground, which is not as safe, as others have suggested.

It may be one of your MICs causing the HUM. You didn't give any info on your MICs as to whether they were connected to the Mixer via 1/4" or XLR.

Unplug each MIC, one at a time, and see if that clears up the HUM.

Norm

[jdavia]

Don't under rate this Amplifier-mixer. I puts out 2x400 watts. that is 400 watts per channel, either in Stereo or Mono. at 4 ohms, not the specks that were mentioned in another post. 400 watts per channel is a lot more power than my 300 watts per channel, and mine is loud.
The way the power is rated today is by the amount of amps used to power the whole amplifier, not the amount it uses to power only the final stage of the amplifier as was the old method. Therefore you get more rated sound amplification from the total watts used, but actually less sound.in loudness.

There has been a lot of suggestions including some of mine, and I suppose the originator of this thread xxyzz has become more confused and don't know where to turn to solve the problem. We might have made more for him.
I can only add now that if the equipment is all in good working order and hooked up properly, when turned on and adjusted properly it should give satisfactory factory results.
One moe thought:
Maybe it has something to do with the way you imported the songs to your computer that you have a volume loss. More to ponder about.

[xxyzz]

WOW, today was the first chance I had to read all these replies. Yes there is some confusion but boy, I sure like all the help everyone give each other. Has anyone used Monster Cable

Studio Pro 1000 Speaker Cables? I will try some of these suggestions. Still not clear on some things but I will expermint. Here is some more info on my mixer.

the EMX68S: 3-band EQ on each channel, dual 7-band graphics, 16 digital effects, and 400W per side (800W bridged), with 8 channels instead of 6. Channels 1-6 are mono channels with XLR and TRS inputs. Channels 7 and 8 are stereo with XLR inputs and TRS pairs.



Features:

• 8 channels
• 2 mono 400W amplifiers (800W bridged)
• 3-band channel EQs
• Dual 7-band graphic equalizers
• 16 digital effects programs (delays, reverbs, flange, doubler, distortion, and symphonic)
• 2 aux sends (monitor and effects)
• Phantom power (+15V)
• Yamaha speaker processing
• XLR and TRS input connectors on channels 1-6, XLR and TRS pairs on 7-8
• 18-15/16"W x 12"H x 12-7/8"D
• 34 lbs.

[xxyzz]

I do have two line in 1/4 jacks that read L mono and R. It read "line" above the L input and MIC under the R input. Is this what you mean but running it in MONO? Should my audio line in be connect here instead of where I have it now which is in the HI-Z/Low-Z jack.

Try opening the Audio Controls and check the slider on the WAVE/Mp3.

Make sure the WAVE slider is above 50%...set it at 100% if you like.

No, the Power supply in a computer doesn't have anything to do with the amount of Power out of the Sound Card.

Usually, Powered Mixers do not have XLR LINE Inputs.

It appears that your Powered Mixer "Yamaha EM88s 250-400" is rated at 250Watts Stereo (250W per Channel) and 400Watts Mono. For Yamaha, this, usually, means at 8-Ohms.

Your Yamaha Series s115 club series speakers, if they are actually CLUBIV or CLUBV speakers, are rated at 500Watts Program and 1000Watts Maximum at 8-Ohms. In stereo mode (250W per Channel) you would be grossly under powering these Speakers. Even with your MASTER Volume at MAX, you would need to have the Volume, on the LINE IN Channel, up 100%, if you had any crowd at all. If you had 100 people or more, you would never be able to get over the loudness of the crowd!

I know what you were thinking when you put this system together...that, no way will I be able to Blow these speakers, but the opposite is the case. With your AMP at MAX...all the time...you are more prone to clipping (bad frequencies going to the Speakers) and, therefore, a higher probability of blowing the Speakers. Not to mention the fact that your AMP has NO HEAD ROOM and, if run continuously like this, will fail.

You should look into running your AMP in MONO. This way you get 400Watts, which is closer to the Program Rating of your Speakers and give you more HEAD ROOM on your AMP.

Or, buy two more CLUBV (CLUB IVs are obsolete) and Parallel them. The resistance is halved in Parallel. 2 8-Ohm Speakers, in Parallel, become effectively 4-Ohm Speakers. Therefore, 4 8-Ohm Speakers hooked in Stereo, should give you the 400Watts per Channel and more HEAD ROOM on your AMP.

As far as HUM goes, you can by a HUM eliminator, as GDUNS suggested, or lift the Ground, which is not as safe, as others have suggested.

It may be one of your MICs causing the HUM. You didn't give any info on your MICs as to whether they were connected to the Mixer via 1/4" or XLR.

Unplug each MIC, one at a time, and see if that clears up the HUM.

Norm[/quote]

[alanross]

xxyzz,
There are several reasons for humming or buzzing noises. Some of the more common ones are:
1) Hum from a system that shares a video signal with a video signal coming from the cable into the building. In other words, if you have your system running to a TV in the bar that also has cable coming in from the cable company, you will get a buzzing or humming noise. You can purchase an in-line filter that gets inserted anywhere along the path of the coax to eliminate this.

2) Hum from a ground loop. An Ebtech Hum Eliminator will cure this completely. It's a passive unit which means it doesn't require power from a battery or wall outlet. Insert it just before whatever line runs to your amp (either from your mixing board or EQ). In other words, if you run a line directly from your mixer into the amp, run that line from your mixer into the Hum Eliminator first, then run a line out of the H.E. and into your amp. This solves your ground loop hum.

3) The same remedy works when you are combining balanced and unbalance signals by using equipment pieced together from multpile manufacturers. The Hum Eliminator will convert the singals so everything is balanced.

4) Bad mic or line cords. If you have cords that you connect and disconnect every show, there is a high probability that your cords can go bad - especially if you don't wrap them with care. Also, if you are using mic extension cords, you can have a bad connection at the female plug end. Although usually the sound a bad cord can make would be described more as a buzzing than a humming. As previously suggested, remove one mic cord at a time to see if the buzzing persists. If, so, then you know your mic cords are not the problem.

5) Mixer noise. After powering up your system, set you mixing board's main volume to about 3/4 full. Then, set your amp volumes to full. Now, don't think in terms of volume. Think in terms of signal. When you push a slide up, you're not sending more sound to your amp; you're sending more signal.

If the signal you send to the amp has noise, then the amp will siimply send that signal to the speakers. Therefore, you want to send a clean signal to your amp so it can send clean sound to the speakers. All mixers have some noise. The more signal you send out of the mixer, the more noise you will send also. This is why you should have the amp volume at full - so you can reduce the amount of signal your mixer pours into the amp, therefore reducing the corresponding noise.

Fortunately, with experience, you will learn how to read the humming. Each buzz or hum has its own unique sound. Once you've been performing long enough, you can usually identify the problem by the way the humming sounds.

Hope this was helpful in deciding which fix is best for you.

- Alan